Still paddling!

Hi Guys, Just thought I'd let you know that Sim and Tara have been holed up for the last day or five with some bad kayaking weather. The good news though is... Da da da da!! They have just said goodbye to the Westcoast today and will be cruising past the Able Tasman for the next few days. The weather looks pretty good for them for the next few days so hopefully they are heading past Nelson shorty. Till next time... Ben

Hokitika to Westport

Hi Sim here
We have made it up as far as Westport, after a few good weather days and fortunately there is more to come! You'll have to excuse the lack of photos as were unable to put any up the moment.
So after landing at Hoki, we left our boats in the capable hands of Brian at the Beachside Holiday Park and headed up to wait out some rough weather with our mate Jono in Greymouth. During that time there was up to 6m swells out on the coast no fun for kayaking. While in Greymouth we had a chat to the local outdoor education students about what we were up to and where we work in Fiordland. We also met with Paul Caffyn and got some good local knowledge on landing further up the coast.

When the weather improved we set out again from Hoki at first light for a very tough day. After pushing into a 15knt Northeaster for 11 hours and one of my rudder lines breaking halfway through the day, we made a surf landing at Greymouth again in the dark! Only 35 kms. Fortunately we had a good crew of KT, Ben and Jono on the lookout for us and they quickly found us and got us back to Jono's. Where KT told us it had been a tropical 1 degree when the picked us up.

Next after a few repairs  in the morning we set off to 12mile where Paul Caffyn lives, a much more pleasant paddle than the day before. Tara was happy we arrived before just before Paul got home as she took a roll right outside his house in small surf after taking the landing a little to relaxed!

Leaving the next morning was a bit sad as KT was heading home after being out support crew for the last month or so. Thanks heaps KT!!!. From 12mile we made our way up to Woodpecker Bay and paddled in to the fox river to camp for the night. Getting in at 3pm was great as we had a bit of time to enjoy it on land and dry some gear before it disappeared again.

I enjoyed paddling up to Charleston past all the awesome rock formations that are popular with climbers. The climbs are right on the sea cliffs and would make for some spectacular views. The entrance to the bay at Charleston is on 8 or 9ms wide so would make a interesting landing spot in big swell. Lucky for us it was just an easy roll through the gap.

We had a rest day yesterday to prepare for making the most of the good weather that is coming up and wait for a new radio to arrive in Westport as our current one as died and it will be vital for getting forecasts for the next stretch as we will start seeing less towns and cell coverage.

Had great paddle up to Westport today around Cape Foulwind in perfect conditions the weather looks like it is to continue to play the game so we hope to be up around the spit and off the wild west coast soon.

This will probably be our last update till we round the top in a week or so. Hopefully then we'll be able to get some photos up. Thanks heaps to everyone for all your help and support along the way and a big thanks to Len from LEGEND Paddles in Chch for helping sort our paddle issues.

Need a new paddle? Talk to LEGEND PADDLES in Christchurch

Hi All

The Crew has made it to Charleston yesterday lunchtime. They then hitched to Westport for a weather update as their radio has given up on them. They were in Woodpecker Bay on Tuesday night and were hoping to get to Westport shortly to wait out a bit of bad weather. With a bit of luck they will be there today/tomorrow. A MASSIVE thanks to Len from LEGEND PADDLES in Christchurch who's making them a new paddle to use, and fixing a broken split paddle for them as we speak. Cheers Len!!

Will have more of an update soon.


Ben

12 mile

Made it up past greymouth to 12 mile. Staying with Paul Caffyn first person to kayak around the south island. Heading north again tomorrow. Should be in Westport in a few days. For a detailed update! Thanks for all the support KT. Her last day as support crew today :-(

Okarito to Hokitika & a surf landing in the dark

It's about time we kept our readers happy with some epic West Coast antics!  We were starting to get worried our adventure seemed boring, so here goes...

We left the small town of Okarito early in the morning of the shortest day of the year.  The tide was low and we paddled out the mouth of the lagoon and into the surf.  We were relaxed as it didn't look to epic but the first big wave I punched launched me backwards and flipped me over.  I rolled up and tried to gain forwards momentum before the next one hit- for a couple of seconds I was teetering on the edge with a paddle blade clawing at the top of the wave trying to hold my ground whilst the rest of the wave tried to suck me back.  After finally breaking through I boosted out the back and looked over to see Sim making it though no worries.  

The sun was rising as we paddled towards Abut Point and within about an hour I could not hold it off any longer and I gave the fish a wee feed.  The going was slow, and as the hours ticked by I keep chundering.  The closer we got to Greens Beach the more we realised that we wearn't going to make it that day.  We had a look on the map and it looked like it might be an okay landing about 6km before Greens.  When we finally paddled into view of this beach, large waves rolled in and the thought of landing through this surf didn't seem too appealing.  It was 5pm and the sun had just disapeared- if we boosted it we might get to Greens before things got really dark.  The lemons were adding up but we decided to go for it.


Daylight was disappearing fast and we tried to radio KT to get an update on our landing situation.  No luck.  A tiny orange dot in the distance momentarily put our minds at ease, KT obviously had a fire going on the beach- at least we would have somewhere to aim for.  We finally negotiated our way in through the surf.  Sim went in first and disappeared.  I followed and managed to get in a wild side surf in the darkness.  After a second side surf I launched up onto the sand.  

KT's comment was "a bit on the late side, but I call that a success" haha. Being on land was awesome, and having a raging fire going and dinner on the go was a job well done by KT! It was a long day- nothing quite like paddling 45km on a packet of raro!

The next morning we got up early ready for the 45km paddle to Hokitika.  Sim cruised off through the surf first and made it out the back sweet.  I followed and managed to get about half way out before getting slammed and back surfed most of the way back in again.  Wave after wave I couldn't make and headway, the sets just kept rolling in.  I was getting dominated.  After feeling like i couldn't take any more, I finally I made it out the back.  

The day was as perfect as could be until we neared Hokitika later in the day.  Huge waves rolled into the river mouth, it clearly was not a go-er  for a landing.  We paddled further north towards the edge of town where KT was waiting for us.  The waves were breaking way out and it looked like it could be messy.  I went in first and just as I got into the surf zone saw a huge wave about to eat me.  I threw myself into it but it trashed me upside down.  I rolled up and took a few strokes before the next one slammed into me.  I was upside down, rolled half up, got smashed by the next one then did the long swim of shame into the beach.  Sim made it in sweet with no dramas at all, not even a broken paddle.  When I finally got on land my pants were around my knees haha. 

At least all that was hurt was my pride and the only casualty was a jandal and a sponge.  Maybe a bit on the damp side, but I'll call it a success! Character building i think its called.  

So now we are in Greymouth staying with Sim's friend Jono until the weather improves.  It's about 45K westerly at the moment which isn't that ideal.  If anyone's keen to come and join our journey, get in touch, paddling on the West Coast really is awesome! 

Hi Everyone,

We are heading back to the West Coast today, and plan on paddling as far as Greens Beach (half way between Okarito and Hokitika) tomorrow.  From there it will be another days paddle to Hokitika- hopefully we don't have to attempt a landing near Ross- we have been warned "avoid at all costs" haha.  At least in a couple of days time, daylight hours will be on the increase- awesome! We should be able to get a post up when we hit Greymouth, but until then hopefully the seas die down again- its a 4m NW swell at the moment :)

Bruce Bay to Okarito

Sim, KT and I have made an unexpected trip over to Christchurch after my grandma passed away a few days ago.  We are hoping to head back to the West Coast in the next few days depending on the weather.  Here's a quick update on our latest adventures. 

Sim and I paddling out from Bruce Bay- photo by KT

After spending more than a week in Bruce Bay we finally got the weather window that we had been waiting for.  With an amazing panorama of the southern alps out to our right we we cruised north feeling a little apprehensive about our inevitable messy landing at Gillespies Beach.  Rumor has it that Gillespies is one of the gnarlier dumping surf beaches on the coast, and the advice that I had been given was to avoid it.  At least it wasnt an 'avoid it at all costs' piece of advice- definitely a good sign! When we arrived early in the afternoon KT informed us on the radio that waves were breaking further out but that we would be sweet as, a welcome relief.  I went in first and made it within a couple of meters of the beach before getting rolled.  Sim got smashed further out before making a clean run in to the beach- so far our combined roll count is sitting at 5 haha. 

Sunset from Gillespies Beach

The following day we paddled north to Okarito in pristine conditions.  Timing it between the sets we managed to surf in over the bar and into the river mouth without too many dramas.  So far we are a month into our journey, but of that month we have only managed to paddle a total of 8 days.  Two more paddling days should get us to Hokitika, and another day to Greymouth.  Progress has been slow but i guess that what you get paddling on the West Coast!

Arriving into the Okarito Lagoon- photo by KT

Calm seas and the Southern Alps

KT- our awesome Landing Analyst and Ground Specialist

An update from the city of Fox Glacier

We are in the big city of Fox Glacier for the day.. made it as far as Bruce Bay where we have spent the week in the luxury of KT's dads pad on the tranquil Willigans Island.  KT has officially joined the team as our 'Landing Analyst and Ground Specialist' which has been awesome.

The seas haven't been too ideal and we are not really sure when we will get a break to head north.. 4m swells with no sheltered landings could make for a good read! Depending on the swells we might make a break for Gillespies Beach near Fox tomorrow.. gotta love the west coast weather!

Here's a few pics from the last week- most of it we spent on land.. enjoy :)

The Tasman Sea pounding the West Coast.. we stayed on land..

Haast Beach surf on a good day, anyone keen?

Taking on the Tasman Sea- KT took this picture of us from Knights Point Lookout, north of Haast

Our palace at Willigans Island, Bruce Bay

Candle lit dinner in paradise

Bruce Bay

Just a quick note to say that we are hitting the seas again tomorrow, hopefully we will be in Bruce Bay in a day or 2. 

Hi Everyone, Sim and I are in Haast at the moment waiting out some exciting weather. Here’s an update on our adventures so far..

On Saturday morning (the 19^th of May) we said our goodbyes to KT who paddled out to Anita Bay with us and headed on our way towards Yates Point. 20 minutes later we turned around to see the Force 4 charging towards us. Rosco, Blake and Adam along with KT had come out to see us off- these guys are awesome! They looked freezing, kitted out with swandrys, ski goggles and gloves. We said our final goodbyes and they turned around and headed back in- this was it, we were finally on our way!

Our paddle north from Milford to Big Bay was relatively uneventful until we got further into Big Bay. There we sat 100m off the beach watching the back of 2m high breaking waves rolling in. We put on our helmets and Sim disappeared in, making his break for the beach. Just as he disappeared a big set came in, and he gave a couple of people on the beach a show with some wild surfing as well as a roll. With some luck I managed a dry head run, success!

The next morning we set off for Gorge River and as we approached we saw 3 people on the beach by the river mouth. There we met Chris and his parents, Catherine and Robert- a.k.a. Beansprout. Check out his book if you get a chance- ‘Life on Gorge River,’ an interesting read about their incredible life beside the wild west coast, 2 days walk from any road. 

The crew at Gorge River

 

  

Having landed in such an amazing place with legendary company, we decided to stay the night. The Long’s cooked up a mean feed for dinner and made us feel so at home that we tossed up staying for another few days. But in the end we couldn’t waste the good weather and waved goodbye to the Longs, thanked them for their hospitality and headed north. We pushed on all the way into Jackson’s Bay that day, continuing on to Neil’s Beach. For the next 3 days we chilled out at a crib owned by Donald, a friend of Sim’s parents. We cranked the coal range, baked scones and had hot showers. Cheers Donald! 
 

Hitching West coast style

Nek Minute

A Neils Beach sunset

On Friday we set off from Neil’s Beach at first light, and had an ‘interesting’ sort of a day... I guess that’s what you get on the west coast! I got sea sick and had a wee chunder. Keen to land but no good landings in sight through the huge surf, we headed for Open Bay Islands which sit about 6km off the coast of Okuru. Apparently back in the day a bunch of sealers were stranded here. They finally built some sort of boat and arrived at the mainland only to find they couldn’t catch any fish. After some time they went back to the island which had once held them hostage, realising that now it was a refuge with an abundant supply of kai. Surely with a name like Open Bay and with a Hut marked on the map, it had to be a good place for us to be. But after another hour of paddling we found no ‘open bay’ in sight, and instead we found a ring of cliffs surrounding the island with no place to land. 

Neils Beach

We cruised on another 10km towards Haast Beach. The waves were only breaking close to the shore, but dumping hard, as a 3m swell met a steep gravel beach. Sim went in first and the next thing I saw was him standing on the beach throwing 2 pieces of his carbon paddle. He has this unique skill in breaking paddles, maybe it’s just because he’s so strong haha. So if anyone’s got a split paddle they want to donate to a good cause, we could definitely do with one (or 2).

His timing through the dumpers was as perfect as could be, the only problem being that by the time he got onto the beach, he was immediately sucked back out, dumped into the gravel with the front of his boat, which started to fold in half and was tossed upside down on the beach. He climbed out but the surf claimed his boat and sucked it back out again beyond reach.

For the next 10 minutes I watched Sim getting beaten, swimming out to his boat and trying to push it in, but every time it hit the beach, it was sucked out again. There was nothing I could do.. It really didn’t look like a good time!! With a huge wave and luck his boat finally washed up and he soon had it dragged up.. Guess you get that on the west coast!!

I gave him a few minutes before I paddled in. About 3m off the beach and thinking I had it dialed, I turned to see a dumper about to eat me.. My timing was as bad as it could have been. I threw all my weight into the wave sideways but before I knew what was happening I was thrown upside down on my head on the ground, I rolled up and Sim quickly grabbed the front of my boat and dragged it up the beach before I got delt to. I was very relieved I had not gone in first, Sim had taken the hit for the team big time.. guess its my turn next time! About 5 minutes later Sim pointed out my ankle was bleeding everywhere.. I hadn’t even noticed- at least I’ll have a sweet battle scar to show for our encounter with Haast Beach! What a day! 
 

Taras war wound

Demoralized and beaten, we stuffed our wet, sandy paddling gear into our boats, grabbed our tent and sleeping bags and started walking down the road towards the township of Haast, 5km away. After a feed of fish and chips and a hot shower and relieved we had survived the day, we fell asleep.

We cruised down to the boats the next morning just as KT randomly drove up. She had been on a sweet detective mission on the West Coast to find us, 2 days of searching in fact. After waiting at Bruce Bay and no sign of us she back tracked down to Neil’s Beach, door knocked the town and finally found Donald’s Place.. Where she then ‘conveniently’ bumped into the guys next door.. and ended up having dinner with them and discussing appropriate methods of killing mutton birds. She then left them with some eel from a tributary of the beautiful waters of lake Te Anau. As tempted as she was to spend the rest of her life with these fishermen, the next morning she set off again on the hunt, soon finding us on the side of the road.

Little did we know that our adventures of the week were not over, or that such an epic night could be had at a campground. In the middle of the night and in gale force winds and pouring rain, with our tent at the verge of tearing apart we got up and moved it. KT’s trusty A-frame miraculously survived the night, although she abandoned ship early in the game and slept in the kitchen. This morning the trampoline was in pieces, and with our tent turning into a kite we pulled it down and dragged all our wet gear into the kitchen. What a night.. gotta love the West Coast!

So now we have retreated to a backpackers in Haast, where we will wait out the storm until the wind and the seas die down before we even have any hope of getting off the beach.

ahh the west coast..